Santiago and Valpariso : 12/30 thru 1/2

We spent virtually all day Saturday traveling from Stanley to Santiago. When our taxi left the airport in Santiago, it took about 10 seconds to realize how different it was from Buenos Aires. 

The view from rooftop patio

More of Las Condas

This is a city on the move: the parallels to Toronto and Vancouver (throw in a little Miami) were so obvious to us. The Economist decribes Chile as the tiger of South America and with good reason. Its healthy GDP growth is evident almost everywhere. New parks, well maintained streets, busy people, and nice, safe neighborhoods. Business getting done. My kinda town. 

Our hotel was in the Las Condas community, a mile or two NE of the "Centro". Here is where many multinationals have their offices and while some may say it lacks the cool grittiness of the older inner city, the residential areas around us were places we'd love to live. The train ran right through it. There were places to run and great places to eat. It was safe; safer than much of Atlanta for sure.

Only one problem: Our 1st day there was Sunday. New Year's eve was the next day and New Year's day followed. In other words, not much was open for 3 of the 4 days we were there. South Americans take their holidays seriously.

Sea Bass Tartare - YUM!

Eat Here!

Not a problem! On Sunday we ran in a linear park, walked to the centro, visited a small museum, had an unbelievable lunch in a great little wine bar and just explored. 





On Monday, we ran another park and had lunch in a restaurant that I'd found on Loogares, the Chilean version of Yelp. Then went to the monstrous 6-story mall in Providencia (at least it was open!). Our observations there could fill another post. No, I didn't buy a thing. 

Tuesday, New Years Day, was more of a disappointment. We took the train to the bus station hoping to go to Valpariso for the day. Silly Americans, you can't expect to get a ticket back to Santiago at the end of a holiday weekend!! So we opted for plan B and walked up and around Cerro San Lucia, a hill in the center of town containing Fort Hidalgo, with fountains and lookouts that were built in the 1800s. We returned to the hotel, and wandered the neighborhood some more. 

Cerro San Lucia

The view from the top

The View from Fort Hidalgo.

We had dinner at the hotel since the only thing open for miles was (get this) Starbucks. Tapas and this drink that looks coincidentally like an iceberg were outstanding. 

On Wednesday we made another go at Valpo. It's a smaller but bustling city. A UNESCO heritage site, we walked the hills and neighborhoods, had lunch with the locals in a busy plaza and returned to Santiago in time to grab our luggage and head to the Airport.

A Cerro Alegre street

The view toward Vina Del Mar

Port Stanley, Falkland Islands: Saturday December 29th

Coming into the harbor

The end of the ship-bound part of our trip. By 8:30, we were off the boat and on a bus bound for Stanley, the Falklands' capital, population ~2,600.

The town in the background

Typical summer weather here is better than you might guess - 60-70f and sunny. Not on this day though-- it was <50 and rainy. Add the relentless wind....


Still, the town had it's own charm. It looks like perhaps a small city in Newfoundland, or maybe Scotland. 

British? Ya think?

Regardless of latitude, it's British and don't you forget it! The war with Argentina in the early 80s has left its mark on this tiny nation. They still show the signs of that war with vast areas of countryside fenced off due to the minefields left behind. The Royal Navy base (with 1,600 personnel) has a huge presence here and is clearly showing who's in control. The people exhibit their British patriotism everywhere with little displays. They need to -- the Argentine government is again making moves and in Ushuaia you heard lots of noise about the "Islas Malvinas" still belonging to them. Why?

Oil - why else? Drilling will begin in 2017 at sites about 300 miles north in the Falklands' waters. The reserves are estimated as more than in the Arctic. So, regardless of climate, the Falklands are heating up. 

Step back in time... to 5 digit phone #s.

I loved this little country and hate to see some of the not-so-great changes that will come with this prosperity. Want to see for yourself? Here's an excuse if you need one!

Fun in The Falklands: Friday, December 28th

We arrived in the Falklands in the early morning. It was strange to see: 1) real darkness, 2) green land.

The day began early to allow us time for all the activities planned. Kayaking at West Point Island began at 8. We said our last paddle was the best ever, but.....

It began quietly; as we made our way in strong current through kelp beds and clear water with birds of various types watching from the rocky shore. Then the fun began.

A young sea lion began investigating the skinny yellow and red intruders. Then more began popping up their little bald heads and became more curious and brave. It seemed like a pod or family with a "Big Mama" - her head was easily 15" across.

Big Mama & baby

At one point I braced the boat - I was sure that the pup who repeatedly nudged my elbow and was less than 2ft from my face was going to try to pop onto the deck. He or she was small by sea lion standards but could have easily been over 100lbs. 
What Scott and Mario's underwater videos later revealed was that there were between 5 and 10 animals playing underneath us.
Sophie, our Zodiac driver heard all this fun and drove over to see more. Dolphins came with her, riding the surf off her bow. They stayed and played as well. So we have sea lions, dolphins and birds on the shore. A one point penguins began porpoising as well as if to say, "Hey what about us? We're cute too!"

Kate & Annie watch the penguins play

Annie is amazed!

Sophie & her dolphin friends

The animals continued to play as we got into the Zodiac to return to the ship. The dolphins then followed us all the way back to the ship. Scott and Mario hung off the bow with video running while getting sprayed with 35 degree water in 45 degree air. We'll try to get these videos uploaded to YouTube as soon as possible.

Cold, Wet Faces

 Next stop, West Point harbor.

A 1 1/2 mile hike took us to colonies of nesting Rockhopper Penguins and Black Browed Albatross.

As usual, the animals were unconcerned with humans. We were close enough to touch them and had to be careful not to step on anyone as we made our way through the tussock grass.

So here we are on the side of a cliff. Two very different birds nesting cooperatively. Chicks of both varieties are tended by their parents. Albatross are taking off and landing (these are huge birds with 5+ ft wingspans) Rockhoppers are stumbling around like the stoners of the penguin world. It was noisy, smelly and captivating.

 

When it was time to go, I ran back to the beach - why not? Never pass up a trail run with amazing views, no matter how short.

 After lunch, conditions changed - surprise! The afternoon paddle was cancelled-- and for good reason; the wind had increased to >25knots. 

 







On the beach at Saunders Island the wind was whipping! There were several varieties of penguins as well as several birds that (shall we say) benefit from them.  A walk over the hill revealed more colonies of Penguins and a beautiful beach with white sand, 5+ foot waves and aqua water. Ignore the temperature and the wind and you can imagine a caribbean island - with penguins!

Don't you wonder about this convo?

Delaying stepping in that cold water as long as possible?

It could be Penguin spring break..

The colony here was particularly interesting. In the others we'd been to there'd been no obvious predators. Here the Cara Cara (a bird that looks like a cross between a vulture and a hawk) aggressively steal eggs, and many dead chicks and broken eggs were strewn around. 

Regardless of this cycle of life playing out, the penguins kept us entertained as we were pelted by sand. The wind continued to increase. At 5:30, we called it day and took a wet Zodiac ride back to the ship.

December 26 & 27th: Drake Lake

It seems almost unfair that our second Drake crossing would be so calm. Too calm actually. Boring would be more accurate. Nap time! I'm really looking forward to the Falklands.

Here's a few pics we took along the way.

One of a bazillion birds

Sitting in the Helmsman's seat (no worries-- it was on autopilot)

How we occupied our time

)

Not far from the Falklands

Christmas Kayaking!!!

Christmas Day, 12/25.

As bleak and boring as the past day or so were, Christmas broke sunny, calm and warm, ~40F. 

Look! There really is a Santa Claus! With kayaks!

 And we're kayaking, bay-bee! It was an excursion to be remembered. The pics don't do it much justice. Let's just say it was about as unique as it gets. All ice, all the time. 

After the paddle was the Chrsitmas Barbeque. Excellent burgers, shrimp on skewers, and beer. And the bartender acting as DJ, at least until Scott took over with his strangely popular hip-hop playlist. 

Santa and Andy, the Bartender-DJ

The Transition from BBQ to Dance Party

Monday, December 24th

For as far as the eye can see...

We’re still making our way toward Elephant Island and there's no excursion today. Two little seminars in the AM with lots of bridge watching. It’s quiet, few bergie bits. We’re not that close to the ice edge. Just a grey day on the water.

Horizontal Snow: Sunday, 12/23

So it's snowing a little.

Kayaking is cancelled again. An excursion to Brown's Bluff this morning showed us just how bad it can get. Cold, windy and rough turned into horizontal snow that piled up surprisingly fast. The penguin colony was fascinating with a few chicks and many pairs nesting. It became a battle of wills against the weather. We lasted several hours thanks to a couple of handwarmers leftover from last winter's Yellowstone trip.

Scott has a new friend

And it piles up!

People acting like Penguins

Ok, we give up!

There was no excursion in the afternoon as the weather continued to deteriorate. I napped; Scott went to Yoga (and napped). I will say that the extreme cold and wind are surprisingly exhausting. The seas only got rougher toward evening. We began making our way toward Elephant Island. It seemed rougher than our time crossing the Drake.